Below is my experience in Seoul with 6 days and 5 nights to spend in this fabulous city. This is my second stint in this city, and I am still loving it. For a first timer such as Fabs, he was amazed of how clean and organised everything is; whilst still maintaining its sense of character and edge. Moreover, he used to dislike Korean food - now he loves it.
Transportation
Sydney → KL took 8 hours + 4 hours’ layover + KL → Seoul took additional 6.5 hours! I thought it would only take 2/3 hours from KL to Seoul. I was gravely mistaken.
Ps. Sydney direct to Seoul only takes 10.5 hours. Double the price (if
not more) though.
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| Remedies to lessen the layover pain – congee with youtiao from McDonalds! |
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| And amazingly tasty laksa eaten at 5.00 am from Toast Box |
Once arrived, we bought
T-money card; a transportation card that can be used on public buses and
subways in several different metropolitan cities and locations throughout South
Korea. More information about travel card can be found here.
We caught the ‘all stop’
subway from the airport to our accommodation since it stopped directly at our stop. Alternatively, there’s an express
train straight to Seoul station.
Accommodation
Though most articles I stumbled upon suggested Myeongdong as the best area to stay, when I mentioned this to my friend who is living in Seoul,
she straight away recommended Hongdae. “Don’t be a tourist” was her line. And mentioned
that Myeongdong ‘ONLY opens
until 10 pm’ whilst Hongdae is ’24 hours’.
I stayed in this Airbnb – a clean cosy studio perfectly
located only metres away from Hongik University subway. The host recommended many
delicious restaurants in the area, I wish we went to all of them!
Attractions
Cheonggyecheon Stream
Line 5 to Gwanghwamun,
Exit 5
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| Cheonggyecheon Candlelight Fountain |
Until it was restored
in 2005, Cheonggyecheon Stream existed only as a neglected waterway hidden by
an overpass. Today, it has been transformed into a beautiful walkway - it passes close to Deoksugung Palace,
Seoul Plaza, the Sejong Center, Insa-dong Street, Changdeokgung Palace, and
Changgyeonggung Palace. Though we only had a stroll to the next subway station heading
to Gwangjang Market for some more food.
Gwangjang Market
5am -11pm Mon – Sat; Line 1 to Jongno5ga, Exit 7
The Gwangjang Market is the nation’s first market and
continues to thrive as a popular tourist destination today. The second floor of the market mostly of silk, satin, and linen bed-sheet stores, which are the largest and most famous in Seoul. The best time to visit, though, is the evening, when the end towards Dongdaemun morphs into Seoul largest food alley.
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| Vegetables pancake with assorted pickles + soju for ₩8000 |
We also had this octopus that was still wriggling around even though the ajoomma already chopped its head off and cut it into bite pieces.
Changdeokgung Palace; Palace of illustrious virtue
Tue – Sun Line 3 to Anguk exit 3
We actually stopped at Gwanghwamun subway station as we
thought we were going to go to Gyeongbokgung palace. Unfortunately, we visited
on Tuesday morning and this palace closes every Tuesday. So, to fulfil our
palace craving – we walked towards Changdeokgung Palace which is next door (10
to 15 minutes walk).
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| What we saw on the way - honestly not sure what was happening here |
We got the combined tickets for the Palace and its secret
garden for ₩8,000. There’re supposedly English tours which run at 10.30 am and
2.30 pm but we were too late for it. There’s audio guide as well for ₩3,000 but we didn’t get it either.
The secret garden though, only accessible via guided tour.
So, we roamed around the main palace until our allocated time at 2.30 pm.
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| Main palace |
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| There are many hanbok (traditional Korean dress) hire around the area |
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| Only the main buildings have colours |
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| Tradition and modernisation co-exist in the middle of Seoul |
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| The lake shaped as Korean Peninsula - the guide added '... the dream of united Korea, North & South together' |
Ikseon-dong
We stumbled upon this neighbourhood on our way to Insadong
from Changdeokgung Palace. We were hungry and I saw rows of restaurants looking
hanok in an alleyway so we turned into the road. It is hailed as “Hidden Gem”, an
up and coming area full of cool cafes and beautifully decorated shops. I read
about it afterwards here.
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| One of the many cute alleys |
Unfortunately, we passed the area around 4.00 pm and most
cafes are closed from 3 – 5 pm.
Insadong 인사동 Market
Line 3, exit 6 Anguk Station
By the time we hit Insadong we were both pretty knackered. We headed to Ssamziegil mall which is located along the shopping street in Insadong and covers 42,700sq. ft with over 70 shops including handicraft stores, souvenir shops, art galleries, restaurants and more.
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| Full of independent shops selling different knick knack |
Lotte tower
Line 2 or 8, Exit 1, 2, 10, 11 Jamsil Station
The tower is part of an impressive complex with at least 2 massive malls. One luxury mall and one for the plebs with aquarium, concert hall, cinemas, multiple food court and so many shops. The scale of these shopping malls is incredible.
Well, who hasn’t heard of Gangnam. We were just wandering around here aimlessly. The whole neighbourhood seems to be filled with (more) shopping and plastic surgeries clinic.
I had to take Fabs to experience Korean spa. It is pretty similar to Japanese onsen, where upon entering the spa; everyone would be in their birthday suits. Fabs described many ‘dongs’ he saw ‘floating’ around. He wasn’t game to get the full body scrub (additional ₩20,000) – I had it, and it was amazing feeling every time. I felt so clean!!
The spa is located next to Marigold hotel and consisted of female and male spas, gym, restaurant and resting area where you can sleep and relax afterwards. It also has some kind of heated igloo rooms with 40 ++ temperature. It is a 24 hours spa, where I assumed some people sleep overnight here.
This spa is the closest from our airBnB. There are many spas in Seoul, with the most famous one being Dragon Hill Spa. My friend recommended a spa near Seoul Station called Siloam Spa, however we didn’t have enough time to check it out. Another famous spa is Itaewon Land – this is an infamous gay spa where everyone known to hook up in the resting area.
This is the largest traditional market in South Korea where various goods in store are sold at affordable prices if you have profound haggling skills. The stores in this area also function as wholesale markets. It is closed on Sundays.
Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) looks like a giant UFO from the outside and comprised of five halls: Art Hall, Museum, Design Lab, Design Market, and Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. There are many 'out there' building designs in Seoul, but this one is the epitome and crown jewel of the city.
The market is South Korea’s largest wholesale and retail shopping district which consisted of 26 shopping malls, 30,000 specialty shops, and 50,000 manufacturers. You can spend the entire day at Dongdaemun if you so choose. I was so spent after 3 hours, mentally, physically and monetarily.
Gangnam District
Well, who hasn’t heard of Gangnam. We were just wandering around here aimlessly. The whole neighbourhood seems to be filled with (more) shopping and plastic surgeries clinic. |
| You can be Audrey Hepburn or whoever you like. World is your oyster |
Happy Day Spa
112 Yanghwa-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul
The spa is located next to Marigold hotel and consisted of female and male spas, gym, restaurant and resting area where you can sleep and relax afterwards. It also has some kind of heated igloo rooms with 40 ++ temperature. It is a 24 hours spa, where I assumed some people sleep overnight here.
This spa is the closest from our airBnB. There are many spas in Seoul, with the most famous one being Dragon Hill Spa. My friend recommended a spa near Seoul Station called Siloam Spa, however we didn’t have enough time to check it out. Another famous spa is Itaewon Land – this is an infamous gay spa where everyone known to hook up in the resting area.
Namdaemun Market
Line 4, Hoehyeon Station Exit 5
Myeongdong
We walked from Namdaemun to Myeongdong - this is THE place to buy Korean skincare and make up products. It also housed a cat café where after much persuasion, Fabs agreed to come with me. I think he had more fun than me. |
| Our favourite cat - just chilling |
Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Market
Line 4, Exit 8 or 9, Dongdaemun StationDongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) looks like a giant UFO from the outside and comprised of five halls: Art Hall, Museum, Design Lab, Design Market, and Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. There are many 'out there' building designs in Seoul, but this one is the epitome and crown jewel of the city.
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| If you like design and building this is the perfect place for you |
Hongdae
Hongik University Station
As mentioned, we ended staying in Hongdae area. It is full of restaurants/bars/night life/shopping, everything a city can offer really. My friend who lives in the same area took us to where locals go. Apparently, shooting, baseball and escape rooms are on the top of the list. Since we thought hangul riddles would be too challenging for us, we opted for shooting and baseball. Fabs did very well in baseball. All those cricket sessions paid off - we got a key ring as a prize!
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| Learnt how to defend myself |
Demilitarized Zone (DMZ)
The zone is only accessible by tours; we used www.koridoor.co.kr to take us there. The DMZ is a buffer zone established after the Korean war, bordering 2 km on each side between South and North Korea; technically they are still at war with each other. I found it very sad for a single nation of people with the same language and ethnicity being divided in two. Both guides; from the palace and DMZ voiced their longing for one Korea.
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| The bridge used to exchange prisoners after Korean war - there are barb wires everywhere |
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| Hello from the other side - you could hear North Korea blasted their propaganda songs from their speakers. That's how close we were. |
Noryangjin Fish Market
Line 1, Exit 1, Noryangjin Station
Here you can buy live seafood from the Ground floor and on Level 1 there are restaurants that cook them for you. Everyone told us to bargain hard for a good price (for the seafood itself + cooking and preparation fees), but we failed miserably. To be fair, in Sydney we would've paid double. It is open all year round, 7 days a week.
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| Very orderly fish market |
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| I believe we over ordered - all of this for approximately AUD100 (seafood + prep) |
Eateries
The first meal that Fabs insisted on having was Korean BBQ. His wish is my command (when it's aligned with mine).
One Sirloin (일편등심)
52 Hongik-ro 6-gil,
Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea $$$$
The price is quite steep comparatively with other eateries we had, but omaigad, it was worth it. The beef just melted and it was so good! No English menu, so fluent Korean/body language is required from all parties involved. I highly recommend this place. Hands down the best restaurant we ate in Seoul.
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| Up the stairs above 7/11 on level 3 |
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| All sort of salt - we shared the ₩99,000 set menu |
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| Amazing looking beef right there. Cooked on charcoal in front of you! |
Aoitory Bakery
327-17 Seogyo-dong,
Mapo-gu, Seoul, South Korea $$
Most places in Seoul opens at 11.30 am. This place opens at
8.00 am, a rarity we were glad of.
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| Fresh buns out of the oven |
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| Bread and sausage was delicious, I love the texture of the bread. We thought the other bread had katsu chicken in it but it was actually potato croquet! It was yummy regardless |
Cafe Bora
75-3 Yulgok-ro 3-gil,
Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul $$
We went here on the way to Changdeokgung Palace. This place
is famous for its purple taro ice cream. But as it’s still pretty cold here, so
we opted for lunch/snack. It was by far the spiciest food I’ve eaten for a very
long time. As Fabs eloquently said ‘my ass will regret this later’.
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| Seemingly innocent menu - we ordered number 11 & 31 |
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| The rice cake was incredibly spicy - we tried to finish it. We failed. |
Vons Chicken
Insadong $$$
We were craving chicken and beer after all that walking - and we saw 'Chicken and Draft Beer'. Sold.
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| We both thought that it would be like Peking duck pancake but with chicken. When it arrived, we realised the ‘pancake’ were actually radish sliced very thinly! |
Ddo-Ong Cafe
67 Gwanhun-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul $$$Located at Insadong on top level of Ssamziegil mall, we tracked down this poop theme café. This shit did not disappoint. Mind the pun.
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| My mojito latte was way too sweet, but everything else was yum |
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| Approved |
Rural Restaurant 시골밥상
549-9 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul $$$
Funnily enough we had our traditional Korean food in Gangnam, the ultra trendy suburb. It was really yummy and a lot! We had the set menu with beef bulgogi and steam egg.
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| I love Korean side dishes, they are plentiful and they're all refillable for no extra charge |
Ginger Pig
128 Yanghwa-ro, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
I met up with my friend at this Korean BBQ restaurant. She hadn't tried this place but had heard good reviews about it and always wanted to try. Both of our verdicts were that it is so so, it's pretty good, but for me the meat was a bit tough.
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| Another set menu - seems like most come with some sort of stew as well! |
Chicken in the Kitchen
4-42, Wausan-ro 29-gil, Mapo-gu Seoul
I found this place in Seoul Timeout, and it was REALLY good KFC (Korean Fried Chicken). We had to wait for about 45 minutes where we spent it in the bar next door. The chicken was crispy, tender, and juicy. I had no idea how they also made it NOT greasy - can anyone please explain?
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| How are Koreans not obese with these type of food I have no idea |
Tips and trick
- I purchased EG sim card online before arrival – I only purchased the 1 GB for ₩30,000 + ₩5,000 for nano sim card. As anything above 500 MB top up gives free access to Olleh wifi, I pretty much didn’t use any of my data as wifi are literally EVERYWHERE in Seoul. I saved all my data for when we are in the countryside as I don’t think wifi will be freely available then.
- When changing line in the subway, try to avoid the lines without numbering (airport line for example) as the transfer inside the subway would’ve taken us 10 minutes sprint from one line to another.
- If you really love coupons, remember to print discount coupons from the Visit Korea Committee (VKC) to get discounts on selected stores. I love coupons, but not that much so I didn’t print any.
- http://english.visitkorea.or.kr provides comprehensive information about South Korea.
- Don’t be surprise when you ordered croque monsieur and it has sugar on it. Seems to me Koreans love putting sugar on savoury stuffs. Like this sausage donut
- There are street vendors selling varieties of food on every corner of the city; fried, boiled, sweet, everything imaginable. Like this one
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| And apparently on garlic bread as well! |
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| Fairy Floss! |
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